Delhi 101 An Insiders Guide To India's capital

Online, September 20, 2010 (Newswire.com) - Lincoln Harris' love affair with India started at the tender age of 16. His passion for the destination has created a successful business - boutique travel company India Unbound - that provides Real India Tour. Culturally insightful, his bespoke tours help unravel the country's unique way of life. Here he provides a frank and fearless review of India's capital.

Be sure you prepare for . . .

Arrival at Delhi airport, where it seems that half the city's 14 million residents have come to welcome you.

Touts, hawkers and slightly annoying behaviour from just a handful of people who seem intent on putting a dampener on what is otherwise a friendly and truly amazing city.

Five rules for the city:

DO use the prepaid taxi service from the airport, which is inside the arrival building, before you exit into the general public area - if you haven't already arranged a transfer in advance.

DON'T believe the taxi driver if he says your hotel has closed down, burnt down or can't be accessed due to some 'Hindu-Muslim problem' - it's just an attempt to get you to the hotel where he gets a commission.

DO look both ways before crossing the street, even if it is a one way street. Traffic laws are obeyed at the driver's discretion. If you are having trouble getting to the other side, attach yourself to a local and go when they do. DON'T expect vehicles to stop for you or the green man

DO try to get the auto-rickshaw and taxi drivers to use the meter. DON'T expect that they will.

DO visit Old Delhi - especially if you are excited by the prospect of wandering aimlessly; getting disoriented and even slightly lost; trying strange snacks; drinking chai and generally just soaking up the old world vibe. This part of the city is from another epoch. Take a business card from the hotel where you are staying, so you can get an auto-rickshaw back when you're lost or have had enough. If the thought of doing it alone scares you, try a guided walking tour such as www.delhiheritagewalks.com DON'T try to rush your visit to this part of the city - the roads are like car parks, even for the human-powered cycle rickshaws that are great fun and the most effective way to get around (even if you do feel like a slave driver).

DO, in the name of cultural sensitivity, brush up on your cricket knowledge - even if you despise the game. All you need to say is that Steve Waugh is your favourite player - he garners respect on a scale normally reserved for India players. For self-preservations sake DON'T say anything about Sachin (no one calls him Tendulkar) other than the most glowing superlatives that you can think of.

Delhi's best kept secret is ....

It's hardly a secret to locals, but Delhi's well kept gardens and the spacious grounds at its many historical monuments are well worth enjoying, especially after a couple of busy days of sightseeing. Sneak in a picnic and risk the wrath of the groundkeepers by eating on the lawn. Try Lodi and Nehru Gardens.

I would never waste a visitor's time with....

Shopping, or at least a visit to a handicraft shop, aka 'emporium'. There is no bigger frustration as a tour operator than the shopping situation in Delhi (and Agra and Jaipur for that matter). While there's amazing shopping in Delhi, more often than not guides receive hefty commissions for taking tourists to the privately-run, hideously overpriced emporiums. Firmly tell your guide you don't want to go shopping, ditch him/her once you are finished with sightseeing for the day, and then visit the government-owned handicraft shops and shopping precincts, such as . . .

Check out these

. . . fashion/jewellery precincts:

Santushti Complex - with fixed prices, you aren't going to score a bargain here - but with the deplorable bargaining skills usually displayed by westerners, "bargain", "Delhi" and "foreigner" aren't words that are normally used in the same sentence. However with around 30 boutiques here, you should come away with some good quality modern Indian clothing and jewellery.

Hauz Khas Village - this precinct is dotted with historical buildings and set in a park. A pleasant place for idling over a coffee; enjoying an excellent meal at Park Baluchi restaurant or for serious shopping, especially high quality homewares.

Khan Market - a mixed bag of bazaar and street shopping with good Indian and western clothes, books, jewellery and a range of restaurants. Something for everyone and all budgets. In the same vein, M-Block in Greater Kailash 1 has a good mix of traditional and modern Indian clothes, jewellery and accessories.

Connaught Place - still the best for Western clothes, despite the attention you get from hawkers, beggars and petty touts.

. . . Indian delights, traditional and otherwise:

Central Cottage Industries Emporium (on Janpath near Connaught Place) - you can't go past it for handicrafts, especially last minute gifts and souvenirs. In the same area (on Baba Kharak Singh Marg near Connaught Place) are the state-run emporiums, which have goods with a more regional feel from each of the states.

Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi - is a winner for its fantastic Indian chaos. Think saris, shoes, car parts, great snacks, books, leather and electronic goods - all are available on the main thoroughfare and down the winding lanes that snake off into Old Delhi.
Palika Bazaar (under Connaught Place) - is not for the feint hearted or claustrophobic; this is cheap and cheerful territory. Bring your bargaining A game.

Don't believe the hype . . .

Malls are all the rage in Delhi; as a result some of Delhi's most happening bars and restaurants (see below) are located within - otherwise they are the same as they are anywhere in the world, sterile and character free.

For an unforgettable view of the city, head to. . . .

There are great views of Old Delhi from the 40 metre high minaret of Jama Masjid - though the public liability aspect of climbing a wafer-thin, 300 year old tower is scary enough. For a more ground level view of things, India Gate and the nearby President's Palace (Rashtrapati Bhavan) and parliament buildings are grand, picturesque and strangely inviting all at the same time. Especially at dusk when locals and families gather to chat, snack and give the place a festive atmosphere in a way that Indians do so well.

Best spot for a cocktail and a splurge . . .

1911 at The Imperial in Connaught Place: if you can't afford to stay at The Imperial, then at least stay for a drink at 1911. Ai at MGF Metropolitan Mall in Saket: Japanese Restaurant and bar - great decor and ambiance. For when you can't face more rice and dahl.

For a more modest night out . . .

QBA in Connaught Place is a popular bar and well located, especially given that a majority of Delhi's night life takes place in South Delhi. Blanco in Kahn Market is especially worthwhile for a post shopping wind down, with 2 for 1 happy hour up to 8.00pm.

Latest hot spots . . .

Agni at The Park in Connaught Place and F Bar at Ashok Hotel in Chanakyapuri attract the late, hip crowd. Expect to dance and spend freely. Living Room Cafe & Kitchen in Hauz Khas Village has great ambiance with live music (something of a rarity in Delhi), good food and reasonably priced drinks.

For good food, I send people to ....

Punjabi by Nature in Raja Garden: recommend for a contemporary take on popular Punjabi food.

Park Baluchi in Hauz Khas Village has wonderful food in a serene setting. A great way to break up the tiring task of shopping in the Village.

Masala Art at Taj Palace in Chanakyapuri has a superb menu - an interactive show kitchen and authentic spices makes this restaurant very popular with travellers.
Zest at DLF Emporio Mall in Vasant Kunj: with multiple cuisines and a great bar on offer, this is one of the most happening upmarket places in the city.
Saravana Bhavan in Connaught Place for excellent, cheap and healthy south Indian food. Try the thali set meal.

For rich, spice-laden Kashmiri cuisine, Chor Bizarre at Hotel Broadways in Old Delhi has a quirky atmosphere and good food.

Karim's in Old Delhi (adjacent to Jama Masjid) - an oldie but a goodie, this 96 year old favourite serves up royal Mughal cuisine at its best.

Colonel's Kababz at Main Market in Defence Colony - their boneless butter chicken and nan at this stand up eatery is as good as it gets

Places to stay. . .

Most mid-level accommodation is roughly in the area of Connaught Place - the central hub of Delhi, where New Delhi becomes Old Delhi - and nearby Karol Bagh; both are on subway lines. However where tourists are, tourists traps will follow - you will get hassled here more than anywhere else in Delhi. Staying in south Delhi not only allows you to stay in an interestingly named suburb - Greater Kailash, South Extension, Friends Colony, Hauz Khas - but also takes you away from touts, beggars and shoe polish scams, and closer to where middle class Delhiwallahs
live and play.

Low and mid-range:

If you have a busy schedule planned for Delhi, you'll be spending so little time at the hotel that minor flaws can be overlooked. Pick of the bunch in Karol Bagh are Florence Inn, Clark International or Sunstar Grand; for something smack bang in the middle of the Connaught Place action, Hotel Palace Heights is good value.
Few travellers choose to stay in the hub-ub of Old Delhi, but if you are a little bit adventurous then doing so has it rewards. Options in this area are limited - just scraping into the mid-range is Hotel Broadway, right on the fringe of the chaos between Old and New Delhi. Jumping well up in class from here is Oberoi's The Maidens. Truly Raj era digs - for indulging the colonial in you.

Boutique:
Amarya Haveli, close to the shopping haven of Hauz Khas village, is much sought after; their use of colourful Indian fabrics and tranquil common spaces are reason enough to stay. B-19, in a wonderful location adjacent to the historic Humayun's Tomb, has a stylish B & B charm that conventional Indian hotels find hard to match.
Also try The Manor, in Friends Colony - something of a cross between a boutique and a heritage hotel, set in delightfully spacious grounds and Ahuja Residency in Golf Links - it's a very quiet area though still close to the action of Khan Market. Much further south is Thikana, a guest house where the family running the property also lives on site. This is an oasis of Indian hospitality - though with only 8 rooms, it's always a battle to get one.

High end:
With The Taj, Oberoi and Le Meridien plus some Indian chain hotels such as the edgy boutique style of The Park, you have several 5 star options.
For the best of the best it's hard to go past The Imperial, the grand dame of genuine heritage hotels - a museum, art gallery and 5 star hotel in one.
The latest entrant at the ultra high-end is Aman Resorts. The verdict is still out on their game changing rooms and suites, but their plunge pool in every room is a new concept for a city centre hotel.

The best way to spend 48-hours here is ....
Day 1: Check in to your hotel, put your sturdy shoes on and spend an hour or two checking out the local area - a self-guided orientation tour. For transport it's best to have a vehicle/driver arranged in advance and on call for your time in the city - it's not the cheapest way to get around but it is hassle free. A guide in Delhi is also useful, even if you normally prefer to be totally independent, because Delhi's history is long and complex, and its sights and monuments beset by hawkers and distractions, that a guide will, well, guide you through it all. Spend the afternoon doing the major sights of south Delhi: Quatb Minar, the towering, ancient observatory; the Ba'hai temple, a Sydney Opera House-type place of worship; and Humayan's Tomb, a pre-cursor to the Taj Mahal. Towards dusk head to India Gate - chat with the locals and enjoy the carnival atmosphere.

Evening Day 1: Duck back to your hotel for a freshen up and change of clothes. Swing QBA in Connaught Place for a taste, followed by Blanco in Khan Market in time for happy hour and dinner. If you are looking for grander first night, dinner at the acclaimed Bukhara at ITC Maurya or Masala Art at Taj Palace (both in Chanakyapuri) - reservations a must. Either way you should end up at Agni or F Bar and let the adrenalin of the big city carry you into the night

Day 2: This morning is all about Old Delhi. Get your driver to drop you at Khari Baoli, India's largest wholesale spice market, and then give him the morning off - cars are useless in this part of town. Slowly head east, camera in hand, ducking down the side lanes to catch some of the behind the scenes market action. Soon enough are on the famed Chandni Chowk, where the fun really begins. Keep on this road, grabbing a kulfi (buttermilk ice cream) for sustenance as you go - this is a traditional Indian street market at its liveliest best. After about half an hour of dodging and weaving your way along the street, you'll stand opposite the giant Lal Qila - the Red Fort. Much of the complex is under Army use and cant be visited, but it's still worth the Rs 250 entry fee. After a stroll through the fort, beat back the hawkers at the exit and find your way back across the main road to Jama Masjid - India's largest mosque. Once inside, brave the narrow stair case of the minaret for great views over the city, or just enjoy the quiet piety of the forecourt.
By now it's time for lunch - exit the mosque from the south gate, cross the street and you are at the Karim's, famous for its Mughal cuisine. If you are up for a post-lunch adventure, turn down any of the narrow lanes that lead off the main street here - you're bound to get lost but that's half the fun. Eventually you'll reach a larger thoroughfare, from where you can flag a taxi and make your way back to your hotel - luckily you remembered to pick up a hotel card before leaving this morning.

Shopping is the order of the afternoon. Firstly take care of your gift and souvenir buying at Central Cottage Industries Emporium near Connaught Place. Then head on to Santushti, Khan Market and Hauz Khas Village for your clothes and jewellery wants.

Evening Day 2: After a big day you'll need a little lie down, before a change of clothes and gears for the evening. Plan your night around some live music or event by checking the listings in the Delhi Time Out or www.delhievents.com. Otherwise some bar hoping will keep things interesting - Cafe Morrison in South Extension, Living Room Cafe and Kitchen in Hauz Khas Village and Zest in Vasant Kunj. If you still aren't done, head to Elevate in Noida - a satellite city just across the Yamuna River - for some serious partying.

Day 3: Stumble on to the plane or your next destination